Loro Piana Roadster Villa d'Este jacket, ivory, front view on dress form
Very good

The House

Loro Piana

Quarona, 1924. The top of the fibre pyramid.

Loro Piana sits at the top of the raw-fibre pyramid and owns most of the way down it. Pietro Loro Piana founded the firm at Quarona in 1924 on a family wool trade that reaches back to the early 1800s; six generations later it runs ten production sites, all in Italy, weaving several million metres a year. LVMH took 80 per cent in July 2013 for around €2bn and moved to 94 per cent in January 2026.

The thing nobody else does is own the fibre itself. Pier Luigi Loro Piana created the baby cashmere category by noticing that a goat's first-shear underhair runs around 13 microns against roughly 15 for an adult. The house held an exclusive vicuña contract from 1994 to 2004 and still buys most of the annual production. Its Record Bale award, running since 1997, took a 2015 winner at 10.3 microns — enough cloth for roughly forty suits in the world.

What to look for is the same trap as Zegna, in a different form: a Loro Piana fabric tag inside someone else's jacket is not a Loro Piana jacket. The house sold cloth to Brioni, to J.Crew and to department stores at the time of the LVMH deal.

How it wears now: finer and more open than most, so drape rather than armour. Storm System pieces carry a bonded membrane, and on older garments the membrane is where they fail.

Reading it in the hand

What gets looked at before a piece is catalogued, and what you can check yourself. Nothing here depends on the label.

  • A Loro Piana fabric tag on someone else's jacket is not a Loro Piana jacket. Wholesale clients at the time of the LVMH deal included Brioni and J.Crew.
  • Loro Piana's own garments are made in Italy in owned plants — ten facilities, all Italian, with all Storm System treatment carried out in company-owned factories.
  • Storm System is a bonded membrane on natural cloth, in use since 1994: a wool or cashmere face over a wind-tight, faintly rubbery inner hand. Green Storm System is the later, part plant-derived version — softer, with slight stretch.
  • Named fibres are grades rather than styles: Baby Cashmere at roughly 13 microns, The Gift of Kings at 12, vicuña at about 12.5, and the Record Bale.
  • Record Bale and Gift of Kings pieces are structurally rare — a Record Bale yields around forty suits worldwide. Any claim of volume in these is false.
  • Recurring house models: the Roadster jacket, and the Icer and Horsey outerwear.

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